As it has focusing screens and Magic Lantern, is actually easier to use it with MF lenses than Nikon. Sorry if this is too far off subject. Manual focus lenses work extremely well with the D, even the much maligned MF zooms, such as this mm f3. As said in an earlier post, the green dot indicator works very well.
But you almost don't even need that because of that great big and bright viewfinder! It has a green dot indicator, so if you get used to it you may get along quite fine. They are not that expensive, and if you get a used one you can sell it back for the same price just as well. The factory focusing screen is far from ideal, but works as long as there is enough light. It is very fine grained, so it lacks the 'snap' you get on something like a film F or FM camera.
I can focus the 50 reasonably accurate, if there is enough light, but find 35mm ia a little more difficult to dial in. Obviously the D lacks the split prism and Nikon doesn't seem to offer one, which is a real pity. The focus confirmation dot in the viewfinder is helpful.
I would suggest sending them an email. The more people prod them, the more likely they are to produce one. So, yes it works, as long as there is enough light. But compared to a nice coarse or split prism screen it's less than ideal. Zone focusing is your friend. I find the split prism and surrounding microprism ring quite distracting when composing the picture. I nowadays am focussing coming from infinity till the dot appears.
From the opposite side I get more misfocussed shots. The lens probably must have its fine focus adjusted a bit Please advise how to activate the manual focus green dot, as I have never been able to figure it out on my D and the instruction manual does not say.
You shouldn't have to activate it, it should work no matter what. Just turn the focus ring slowly until you see it. You should see arrows to either side of it indicating which way to turn the ring. Make sure you register the MF lens you're using in the non-cpu registry as well. With my unit, the manual focus was correct with mf lenses when the arrow on the right side of the electronic viewfinder just touched the center dot while flickering not solid , but not when both arrows showed what should have been focus.
In other words the arrow pointing to the left on the right side. One of the reasons I returned the camera was my vision is no longer good close-up like it used to be, and I needed to get a camera with focus peaking to use my Nikkor Changing into reading glasses every time and using live view was a total hassle.
But otherwise the camera was great. It adds 1. Granted it's not much magnification; but when I mount my Zeiss 21mm MF Distagon, it sure helps with more accurate center focus. The DKM does not fit directly the D, it can be mounted with a workaround google the two terms, there are discussions on DPReview too or it can be bought a Tenpa magnifying eyepiece, there are either in the 1.
It's the DK21M, providing 1. A split prism screen is practically the only thing I want from the D that I cannot have. Last time I checked the KatzEye web site, there was some intimation that a Nikon design change made it impossible to provide a split prism screen for the D Let's hope KatzEye can overcome that.
The green dot works, but only with some trial and error. I found this out when I bought the Samyang 14mm. I get some shots that are sharp enough to make we want to do it consistently. And then I get some ordinary ones. I haven't found a better way than to seesaw back and forth between the two poles where the green dot comes on or goes out, and that;s not precise or predictable enough. There was one time when I thought I could see the sharpest area in the image in the viewfinder, but it's just not that easy.
My eyesight is still decent at short distances, and I take my glasses off to use the camera. I spent many years with manual focus film cameras split screen, micro prisms , and also had a Katz Eye on my D some years ago. I now shoot almost entirely manual focus on my D and rely very heavily on the green dot. In my personal experience, I am getting a much higher ratio of in-focus images than I ever did with the old screens, and I find it much, much faster.
Is there some latitude that can result in less than perfect focus sometimes? Sure, especially wide open with fast glass. Luckily, there are built-in tools to help you do that. Though you can use MF at any time, there are a few specific scenarios that really benefit from it.
Often these scenarios are a challenge for autofocus, wherein it either focuses on the wrong subject, or simply can't find focus. Here are a few examples:. When shooting macro, where the depth of field is so shallow, it's important to have complete control over what exactly is in focus. It's also apparent that autofocus is challenged by macro shots, and spends too much time looking for the focus point.
Crowded settings. If you're trying to shoot a subject in a crowded settings of similar objects, the camera might have a hard time identifying exactly what you're trying to shoot.
For example, many blades of grass. Shooting 'through' an object. You can achieve really striking photos by keeping the object closest to the lens out of focus, and focusing in on a subject further away. In this case, use manual focus to ensure the further-away object is the one in focus. Low light. There are newer versions of the lens produced today, but none compare to this vintage, ultra-smooth autofocus version. True, prices on the 28mm are steep, but that comes with the territory of supreme quality.
And they still make it today. Versions are available all the way back to , with the autofocus D lenses being the most desirable. And loads can be purchased at an affordable price. Though Nikon still produces an autofocus version of this lens, the manual-focus version which was axed in has far superior optical quality. When shooting a horizon, the horizon line stays perfectly straight provided your composition was level at the time of shooting.
Minuscule numbers of these lenses were made, and they had to be special ordered from the Nikon factory where they were custom made. Learn More.
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